Some thoughts about our trip.

When we first set off on our adventure I guess we both wondered about just how far we would get and to a certain degree both concerned about our safety. I was never worried about our sailing safety, I was more concerned about having to endure the Caribbean again and especially the delights of Trinidad as our first stop. It certainly wasn’t my favourite place and as I said after my first trip there ‘never again’ I really mean it this time ‘NEVER AGAIN!. Of all the places that we went to Trinidad was by far the worst place, although the Caribbean end of the Panama Canal came pretty close.

We also went to some of the best places in the world, my favourite place without a doubt was Porvenir in the San Blas Islands. I’d go back there like a shot, even if it meant that I had to put up with the trip round the coast of Colombia again. I always wondered how I’d cope in a big sea, but after 30 foot plus waves, wind speeds of 50 knots and over, and a couple of knockdowns to boot, I think I did ok! Night watches were a chore that had to just be got on with. Sitting by yourself in the dark, solo charge of a 40 foot yacht in the middle of the Pacific gives you a certain degree of self reliance I can tell you.

Nigel had a couple of heart stopper moments, one was when he was night fishing and a ‘very’ big fish swam right under the boat and up to him. The other time was in the middle of the night when I gave out a blood curdling yell – it was the 3am, pitch black, middle of the Pacific, no one for thousands of miles. Suddenly the sky lit up brilliant white behind me with a sizzling sound followed by a large green streak across the sky. Holy Cr*p - I thought ET was going to beam me up. He was not impressed at being woken like that I can tell you, turns out that it was probably a meteor entering the atmosphere just above my head.

How did we cope onboard? Just fine! Nigel had always thought that I’d never be able to put up with the hardship of living long term on a yacht. But in the end it turned out that I managed slightly better than he did. Touch wood I’ve never been seasick, I can cook in the roughest of seas, and I didn’t mind stripping off on the jetty for a wash in a big bucket. Ok, so at times it wasn’t great being tossed around like you were in a tumble dryer in 100 degrees plus heat. But the places and people that we met along the way made up for all of that.

On our sailing adventures, between us we have sailed 2/3 of the way round the world, it’s very sad that the remaining 1/3 is probably through some of the most dangerous waters in the world and means that we may never get the opportunity to complete a circumnavigation. Until piracy is brought under control in the Gulf of Aden it’s doubtful that we ever will. Sadly pirates claimed the lives of 2 people that we met along the way and the Danish family that we lived alongside in Panama are still being held hostage in Somalia. I’m going to dedicate a page to Phyllis and Bob and the Johansens from Denmark aboard ING.

Would we do it again? I think so, next time I’d like to do it in a catamaran (a little bit more space and luxury). Take less clothes, buy more black pearls, salsa more in Colombia and stockpile Abuelo Rum. If I ever win the lottery I’m going to charter Richard Branson’s big catamaran (the one with the mini submarine onboard) and sail round the San Blas and or The Galapagos with a whole bunch of ‘good folk’ on board. About time I shared an adventure with one or two of you!

An adventure to the Land that Time Forgot

While I was away in New Zealand Nigel and Ted sailed the boat down to the western end of Tahiti, not a great distance only 5 miles or so. They'd spent most of the time cleaning the boat and snorkeling during the day and visiting the bar at the marina not far from the anchorage.

They'd chosen a fabulous spot, from our anchorage we looked directly over to Moorea (that's the picture with the yachts from my last blog entry). Moorea is one of the most scenic islands in the world, its where they filmed South Pacific and most iconic views of the South Pacific are shot here. The outline of the island is magnificent and looked incredibly beautiful as the sun went down behind it in the evenings.

My first morning back saw Nigel drag me out of bed at 06:30 to go snorkeling, we loaded up the dinghy and rowed the short distance from Honalee to the edge of the reef. For those of you that aren't familiar with the layout of French Polynesia all of the islands are surrounded by coral atols. This means that outside of the reef it can be incredibly rough and very deep, whereas once you are inside the reef its calm and the sea is the most stunning tourquoise blue and reasonably shallow.Apart from the Galapagos which was teeming with fish this is the most magnificent place to snorkel, so much coral, so many fish. It was like swimming in someones tropical fish tank, you expect to see a treasure chest laying on it's side with jewels spilling onto the sand. Heck of a way to spend the morning, infact we were out there for 3 hours, we did the for the following couple of mornings and didn't see the same thing twice.

Before we departed for Moorea we did another 4 WD drive adventure into the mountains in the middle of Tahiti. Nobody lives here, just as well really as the road is incredibly steep and rough and prone to landslides when its been raining. We had a blast despite the enormous potholes which at times felt like you were falling into the abyss whilst lossing any fillings that you had at the same time.

We crossed rivers and fords, saw some incredible waterfalls, infact everywhere you looked there was a waterfall, I've never seen so many in all my life. Just before we stopped off for lunch we took time out to swim in one of the rivers, crisp clean cold mountain water, just what you need in 30 degrees of heat. Only myself the tour guide and one other took the plunge, but after some short deliberation Nigel decided not to let the side down and finally joined us - he's such a woosy where cold water is concerned. The rest of the day saw us travelling through countyside that came straight out of the The Land that Time Forgot and Jurassic park, lush rainforest and mountain pastures.


We had an amazing day, after the heat and dust of Papeetee it was chicken soup for the soul to be up in the peace and beauty of the mountains. We are being incredibly spoilt and feel truly fortunate that we are being given the opportunity to do all of this.

Tahiti and a position Update

Well its been nearly 2 months since my last update - and yes there is lots to update you with.

Tahiti was fabulous - very expensive,lush, green and exotic. Our first week was spent in the capital Pappetee, it was so good to be alongside a jetty with running water and electric. The last time we had had either of these luxuries was in Panama which seemed an eternity ago. I really didn't care that I had the population of Papeetee watching me having a shower on the jetty as they commuted into work, I was just soooo please to have fresh water to wash my hair with!

Just a short walk from the boat was the fruit and veg market, quite disappointing really, after coming from the Marquessa's where just about everything imaginable grows (and is free) what was on offer here was a bit of a come down, not only was there little choice it was also extortionate - £15 for a bag of 5 oranges! But, it was nice to get in a bit of retail therapy.

I flew home to New Zealand for a brief visit to get our residency visa's and to catch up with Robb and Heather. Before I left Nigel and I had a couple of days in a hotel - sheer bliss I tell you - hot running water - a toilet that didn't require you to brace yourself with your legs up the wall - media overload with a flat screen TV - internet - wow died and gone to heaven I tell you!

Just before I left Sara and Norman sailed in from the Tuamoto's, they'd had a great time, partied on the beach and dived for pearls. A great shame that we missed the Tuamoto's (this time) perhaps if we do it again we will get a chance to go see what we missed.

Anyhow I will post some photo's on this update for you and fill you in on the rest of Tahiti and Moorea in my next entry.

Nigel

Nigel has been having a great time while we have been away, he's had some stressful moments but on large this trip has been a good wind down from life in the Navy. He's had his fishing moments and I don't think that he will ever catch another marlin in his life - it will forever be 'The one that got away'.

He's got us through some pretty rough sailing conditions and he's trying to teach Ted how to navigate (think he's on to a loser with that one!). He loves sitting up on watch by himself contemplating, and he's still the only one of us that would quite happily do the big trip again from Galapagos - good for him 'cause I sure as hell won't be doing it!

Anyhow here are some photo's of my better half on his Pacific Adventure.

Ua Poo - pronounced Waaa Poooo!

This was our last stop in the Marquesas, we were the only boat in the anchorage and as usual the villagers off loaded their excess bannanas. Everyone rows in the islands, probably because it is the only way to get round to the other villages, so where ever you go when work is finished everyone does the Hawaii 5 0 bit.This was the village where I was 'advised' that the tap I was washing my hair and feet under was the village drinking water.

More Photo's

Doing this a bit arsey - but hey!

Wind from all regions and overdosing on strange meat and gratis fruit

Well the trilogy continues, as does the gusting wind from the north, south, east and west; yes, bad wind seems to be the theme at the moment. We are supposed to be in the Trade Winds belt, with constant south easterlies, however wind is coming from everywhere at the moment (and its got nothing to do with all the fruit). Oh and it rained overnight, which is the first rain we have seen in an age; but when it does we have to close windows and the temperature is soon through the roof (you wouldn’t believe how hot it is here overnight, so perhaps I shouldn’t be moaning about the wind after all).

Yesterday we did a tour of much of the island of Nuka-Hiva, which proved to be really interesting. It is quite a big island with an airport of sorts, however the road from the main town to the airfield is still unmade (as are all the others) and we now realise why everybody drives a 4x4. The island is quite stunning and despite the fact that they are in the middle of the worst drought on record, everything within the interior is very green and lush. As with all of these island, fruit is everywhere, so again we overdosed on mango and banana.

We spent about 8 hours travelling around and 90% of it was on dirt roads, however we did get to visit several ancient sites and learn something of the bloody past of this island. Inter tribe fighting was always taking place and the pits where prisoners were held before execution, the sacrifice alters and the shaped stones for crushing skulls of these lucky enough to be selected to meet there makers were everywhere. The last known act of cannibalism took place on these islands 100 years ago, however when you visit these sites, you realise how much it must have been part of the everyday way of life. So when the next village invited you over for supper the usual 'Bring a bottle' for us meant 'Bring whoever you can spare for the entree' for them.